Deck Chair Cinema Darwin Sunday 31 August

Tonight we had booked the open air cinema so we decided to make pizza to take for dinner and visit the lake before hand for a swim.
We had cooked a lovely bbq lamb the night before and so used the left overs with feta and olives to make a wood fired pizza. It was a bit hot cooking this outside in the early afternoon but well worth it.
The swim was great and we got to the cinema at 6.30pm so we could eat before the film started at 7.30pm. The Deckchair cinema started in Darwin in 1994 and runs during the winter months May-Oct.You can take food and they sell beer/wine, its run by the Darwin Film Society so runs lots of film festival type movies. Its in a wonderful location right by the beach and we enjoyed the sunset filtering through the trees. The film was Trip to Italy which sounded good.
I have to say the deck chairs even with cushions provided weren't the most comfortable things, especially if you have a twingy back. Now the film !! The scenery in it was wonderful, the dialogue was very funny at times, the story line was well....... see for yourself.
We did enjoy our selves, the pizza, the red wine(even though they keep the Shiraz in the fridge) and watching the stars when the movie didn't quite make it at times was a fantastic experience.

Sun going down

Aviation Museum

We had an early morning start with a viber conversation with Callan, Braedyn and Krisha in London at 7am.
It was so good to chat to them all, Callan had just returned from Edinburgh after 6 weeks working at the festival there and so it was the first time they had been together since Xmas. Callan was flying to Ireland the next day to meet Lucia who was arriving  in from Argentina after spending some time with her family.
We had a good catch up and it was great hearing about there plans to join their cousin Giselle and her partner Andrew for Xmas in Berlin where they live, nothing like family at Christmas time.
Our plan was to visit the Aviation museum today as it was just along the road and would be a good follow on from the previous day.
It was enjoyable and we couldn't help thinking how our friend David would have so loved it,planes galore and all types too.

Tiger Moth

Not a very elegant pose!

Military Museum and Lake Alexander

We had decided to make an early start as it gets very hot in the afternoon to go walking about.
 We visited the Darwin Military Museum at East Point which has both inside and outside exhibits and a great interactive theatre experience of the bombing of Darwin. The museum is extremely well done and we learned a lot about the WW2 bombing of Darwin by the Japanese on Feb 19 1942.
It was only 2 months after Pearl Harbour and there were twice as many bombs dropped, the harbour had over 40 ships in and although it was a possibility they were really taken by surprise. The Japanese bombing of the Northern Territory lasted for 2 years and over 70 raids were experienced so the area took quite a pounding.
 We didn't realise the impact that happened Australia in WW2 really at all.

LandDrover Ambo

 They also had a section covering Vietnam and later military conflicts.
It had got hotter so I was determined to have a swim. On the way to the museum I had saw a park and lake so we got some lunch and found a cool spot under some trees.
Lake Alexander is a salt water lake right by the sea but safe from crocs and stingers. The stingers or jelly fish are not usually around at this time of year but it is still possible to get stung and none of the locals swim in the sea at all. The lake has half roped off for swimmers and the other part is for kayakers, paddle boards etc. The water was soooo nice,warm but refreshing,even Lloyd swam.

Lake Alexander

Mindil Beach Sunset Markets 28 August

After driving around the city we arrived at Mindil Beach, the markets run from 4pm until about 9pm.
The actual market part was smaller that we thought but they had all the usual and some other interesting products such as crocodile teeth necklaces, Just what we always wanted Yeah right!!!!
We had intended to have dinner there as there are about 40 different food stalls but we were both still full from such a big lunch.A mango smoothie seemed to go down well as we sat and listened to some of the entertainment waiting for the sunset at 6.40pm. The Navel Big Band were pretty good and certainly looked the part.  As the evening went on more people arrived and we went to the beach about 6.15 am which is right next door to watch the sunset. It was amazing as people just kept coming on to the beach and by sunset there must have been 500 people all along the beach taking photos and just chilling out eating and drinking, awesome way to spend an evening. The action in the market was also hotting up with the entertainment. A guy on a didgeridoo accompanied by a drummer was cranking with  lots of the local girls doing dance moves in front of the crowd, great watching.

Navel Big Band

Beach sunset watchers

Darwin

We wanted to be in Darwin on Thursday for the famous Sunset Mindil Beach Markets and this was easily achieved.
Campsites in Darwin are very expensive, $55 per night and we had heard about a newly opened place which had limited availability. We decided to just turn up and enquire and the owners Rod and June were very helpful saying we could stay for 4 days. We told them we didn't need power so that helped and we got a lovely spot overlooking a billabong which had plenty of bird life, fish and wallabies jumping by.
 It used to be a Barramundi  Fishing Park but Rob said it was not a good money maker and very time consuming and so he put in some power and now gets inundated with caravanners wanting a spot.
It costs $20 per night and he has a dump site as well, you must be self contained as there are no ablution blocks, sweet!

The view from our caravan

 After a getting set up we headed off to to have a look around the city. Darwin was really devastated by Cyclone Tracy in 1974 and so much of it had to be re built. We went on to Stokes Wharf which has memorials to the 30 waterside workers who lost their lives on the wharf in the bombing by the Japanese in 1942.

Part of the memorial on the wharf

We also had a yummy lunch there, Lloyd had his favourite of calamari and I had a barramundi fillet done in tempera with salad, it tasted really fresh!

Lloyd enjoying his lunch on Stokes Wharf

Croc Fishing Part 2

As the tide turns the fish seem to become more confused as to what way they should swim, but the crocs know just where to wait.
The large male dominate crocodile is named Nigel,(the ranger informed us) he has a GPS tracker on his back and he rules the river. The others just wait until he has finished and then get whats left.
What is also amazing is that there is traffic going through the crossing while this is happening, 4wd only of course, but also a large road train came through.
It was really fascinating watching, we were there for about 1 and 1/2 hours, chatting away with all sorts of people also enjoying the spectacle. It was such a good show and free!!!

Nigel with his GPS tracker

Enjoying his fish lunch

Car and crocs share the road

Cahills Crossing Croc Fishing Part 1

Now this place has to be seen to be believed.
 It was a 1km walk from our camp site on we had been told you must go at high tide.  So off we went not sure what we would see.
It is a road that goes through to Arnhem land, its the east Alligator River Crossing.
At high tide the sea water rises causing the road to be covered quite deep and the fish, mullet and barramundi jump both ways over the causeway providing a meal for the lurking crocodiles.
There were about 8 crocs there just cursing about when we arrived about 1/2 before high tide. But there were also about 6 fisherman standing on the causeway in over ankle deep water fishing for barra too. They did not seemed too concerned and one fellow even tried to catch the fish with his hands after losing his rod when casting. This evidently happens daily and quite a crowd of people watch with cameras in hand.There is a viewing platform quite high above the road  and river but you are only about 8 metres from the water so see everything really well.

Before the tide rise with just a few fisherman

Trying to hand fish!!!

Now the Crocs turn in the same place, he swims over the causeway catching fish along the way

Ubirr Rock

With it being so hot we made sure we were up early and at our destination at Ubirr Rock.
It has a loop walk with many wonderful rock art paintings.There was supposed to be a guided ranger talk but on arrival a sign stated this was cancelled so we proceeded on our own.
There are quite a few signs that describe the story behind the rock art which helps.
However the highlight was the climb to the top of Ubirr Rock and the 360 degree view. Of course it was a clear blue sky day,as it has been for the last month, so you could see for miles.

Amazing rock formation on top of Ubirr Rock

The colours were amazing, the very green wetlands and the blue billabongs surrounded by green/brown trees and then stone/rocks. Again the photos don't really do the scenery justice.

Lloyd on top of Ubirr Rock

Merl camp and Border Store

We completed our shopping in Jabiru.
It so took us back to when we lived in Mt Hagen in PNG. The supermarket was so similar and to think it was 32 years ago and the prices were like then horrendous!
The drive towards Arnhem Land was about 40kms and we camped at Merl campsite which had plenty of shade. In the afternoon we visited the Border Store where they had some Aboriginal women doing some weaving. They use the pandaneous  leaves which they treat similar to flax with the way they split and then dry the strips.
The weaving is in circular patterns very similar to what they do in PNG, making mats, bags, wall hangings etc.

This area of the Kakadu NP is called stone country and by the pictures you can see why.
There are actually 6 areas and each area has its own range of habitants. The lowland plains that stretch over the Top End make up 70% of the park.

There are stones like this all along the roadsides.

I find it interesting too that it is often mentioned that where we did the Yellow Water cruise is where the movies  Crocodile Dundee, these were now made over 30 years ago, still a claim to fame!
This area is also where the Alligator rivers East,South and West are. They were explored bean English navigator Philip King in 1820 who named them in the mistaken belief that the crocodiles in the rivers were alligators.
Evidently many people tried to get the name changed later but the government refused saying it would cost too much.
We returned to the camp and really for the first time felt the intense heat. It was over 38 deg and only dropped much later in the evening for comfortable sleeping. Both of us enjoyed chilling out reading our books.

Jabiru August 23

Jabiru is really the only town in the Kakadu NP. We drove in after seeing the rock art as we needed to stock up the fridge on food. We arrived at the supermarket at 1.02pm only to fine it closed at 1pm on a Sunday. We really wanted to travel further out towards Arnham Land but needed the supplies as there is nothing available there so our only option was to stay the night.
There are no cheap campsites here, so it was to a very nice Caravan Park, we have a power site with an ensuite and it is the first time we have been hooked up to power since leaving Brisbane over a month ago. It does mean we can re charge everything and full up all our water tanks and also drinking water tanks.
The best thing is the wonderful swimming pool!!!!! It was 38 deg here and that pool was so so good.Funny enough we thought the water would be warm but much to our surprise it was very refreshing and cool.I can even look forward to blow drying my hair which is a rear novelty now since the dryer doesn't work on the inverter. We even did some laundry and then washed the really dirty caravan and car. We certainly have made good use of the facilities.

What luxury no warning signs about those crocs!

You know how I said Lloyd was coping better with the flies. Well here he is putting air into the tyres after being on the dirt roads. He loves his new veil, it works a treat !

Nourlangie Rock Art August 23

One place that is really famous in Kakadu NP is the Nourlangie rock and its Aboriginal rock paintings. The rock is actually several and much of the rock art is large open type caves. Its very amazing and visible after all the thousands of years. Its a 3km loop walk and there are several Rangers explaining about the paintings as well.There are several high look outs that allow you a wonderful view back over the Kakadus.

Lloyd posing

Rock Art It all has meaning of course!

Cooinda and Yellow Water Cruise

We drove further up the highway to Cooinda and found a nice shady campsite, so decided to stay for a couple of days as there were things to see nearby.

Termite Hill

A saltie crocodile,they are also found in fresh water and can travel inland 25kms

We had seen lots of termite hill art but up here they are huge.Well over 2 meters,and really interesting shapes.

Sea Eagle

We booked a Yellow Water sunset cruise which takes you over the wetlands to see the wildlife. It was very worthwhile and we saw

Lotus waterlines which are everywhere, the Aboriginals use all of the plant for many uses.

all sorts of birds and of course salt water crocs,many!!! We were surprised to learn that they stay underwater for up to 1 1/2hrs.Sunset was very worthwhile too.

Maguk Waterhole and Falls

The drive to our next place was not too far but the camp site was not particularly pretty. It had very little shade but we parked there solely for the purpose of being able to leave the caravan there and drive up to Maguk waterfalls which has a 4wd gravel road in. We had read not to take the van in, so headed off in the Toyota.
The road was only 10km so not too long and  we are pleased we had left the caravan behind.

Living wall

The walk in Maguk was about 2km over rocky boulders and it was afternoon now and very warm. The falls were very pretty but it was the high rock walls that were really picturesque . There were lots of ferns and plants growing out of the rock wall, just like a living wall. I felt the photos didn't do it justice.
It really was another magic spot and we spent quite some time there just taking it all in. Also there were only 4 other people there. We have been told that traveller numbers up here are lessening as its getting hotter. The peak time is June/July.
By the time we get to Kimberleys we are aware it will be rather hot but we are beginning to adapt. Lloyd is even copying with the flies better. We put out mosie coils each night and spray our selves but I have to say mosies so far haven't been a problem.It was the sand flies that got me!They are nasty!!!!

Maguk Falls and swimming hole

The walk in over the boulders

Lynda swimming, the water was so clear and even had tropical fish in it

Our first and hopefully only Bush Fire

As darkness drew in it only made the fire seem closer and look more fierce.
The other interesting thing that was happening was a large group of school kids on a camp about 100 metres from us. They were mainly Aboriginal and as it got darker they started their music and dancing. They had the didgeridoo and sticks playing with their singing. It was rather pleasant but eerie also as you could hear the crackling of the bush burning. Only in Australia!!

The fire had reached the 2nd ridge  and was about 300 mtrs away

We had pulled in our awning and lifted our caravan legs ready to move . You couldn't leave the camp however as the only way out was through were the fire was and the road at night would be extremely difficult. We would of had to leave the caravan behind. The saving grace was the wind or lack of it.Iit completely died out and just after about 10pm it started to die down. Needless to say we didn't get too much sleep. The ranger came round early the next morning to say they were closing the camp site. The wind was now gusting really strong and the expected the whole thing to ignite again by the afternoon. Of course it meant I did not get to climb up to the pools. But we will be back hopefully on the way back from Darwin when all is safe!!!

Even on the drive out in the morning we went past flames on the roadside

Gunlom and a little Drama

After our wonderful cooling dip we sat to relax and noticed some smoke in the distance.
After a few hours it had got somewhat closer.
The photos show it all really, bed was rather late that night! The ranger cancelled his slide show talk as he needed to get some help from headquarters. Lucky the small amount of wind died away.

First appearance of smoke

We can now see flames in the distance

Now its really too close. Thats our car and the caravan is behind

Kakadu National Park August 22

Kakadu National Park is a world heritage listed park for its cultural and ecological values and is about 20,000 sq ams . We drove into the park from the south and you drive through it in a loop and then on to Darwin.
Our first stop was to Gunlom Falls where you can hike up to an amazing plunge pool. It was only listed on Trip Advisior last week in the top 10 plunge pools in the world!!!
Firstly however we had to negoiate the drive in. The road off the main paved road is 39kms of dirt, corrugated with big holes to dodge. They say 4wd only and you must have a high clearance caravan .
We had checked out comments on Wiki camps and decided to go. Again we didn't come all this way to sit in safe camp grounds seeing little because we didn't want to get our rigs dirty!!!

After lowering the tyre pressures and covering all the vents in the caravan we were off!!

The drive took us one and half hours and it was rather bad in places but we just took it slowly and finally got there.On opening the van it was good to see no red dust and all was in tact. We wondered over to the falls which were not very flowing but still impressive because of the height. We did have a quick swim, they were pretty cold and you were always on the lookout,although there were some locals also so that a good sign. I looked and saw some people at the top, thinking that will be us tomorrow. Its a very, very steep 1 km climb and needed to be done in the morning as it was 3pm now and over 35deg. The camp site was really big and you looked up at the high cliffs of Gunlom. 

Signs that say it all

Gunlom Falls and pool.  The walk is up to the plunge pool is up the high cliff you can see

Leliyn (Edith Falls)

The upper falls and plunge pool

Me under the waterfall in the right hand corner

Much of the walk is very rocky, I was so glad for my Merrells once again!

These falls and gorge are located on the western boundary of Nitmiluk Park and about 40kms  north from Katherine.
We arrived quite late about 6pm but just in time for the beautiful sunset. The falls and swimming hole is very close to the camp ground and we decided the next day to do the longer 3km hike up to the upper falls and plunge pool.

Edith falls at sunset with the high rock walls (the falls are just visible )

The next morning we got going early with our swim suits and hike up hill to the upper falls and pool. They were wonderful and we both enjoyed the swim even though it was a little chilly for Lloyd to stay in too long. There are so many great photos from this and the walk back, here a few.